How to combine the old with the new


DThe third fashion week of the season, after New York and London, has one thing in common: the weather is usually beautiful. You can enjoy late summer in Milan in September, while north of the Alps it can generally be uncomfortable. You can count on that. Otherwise, during this time, not much provides stability, neither the prices on the stock exchange, nor world events, nor the pandemic, which has stopped fashion for two years and is still not over. Anxiety can arise Milan Fashion Weekwhich has been showcasing the upcoming spring and summer fashion in nearly 70 shows since Wednesday, but no one is noticing.

Anne Schipp

Editor of the “Life” section of the Sunday newspaper Frankfurter Allgemeine.

Much is the same as always. Giorgio ArmaniThe 88-year-old, tanned after his second-line Emporio Armani show, takes to the catwalk and takes on queen status in Milan: he’s just (still) there. The same can be said about 73-year-old Miuccia Prada. But since she brought on Belgian designer Raf Simons, almost 20 years her junior, as creative director two and a half years ago, she has kept her collections fresh, which was on display Thursday at the headquarters on Via Lorenzini: a romantic but otherwise simple collection consisting of gray, white, black with small orange, yellow and red elements, “without unnecessary complexity”, as Miuccia Prada declared after the show. An innovative element is clothing made from fabric made from paper.

Performance as a strongman

Some brands are looking for a breath of fresh air right now Milan. At Etro, once a traditional family business that was recently sold to luxury group LVMH, new impetus is expected from creative director Marco de Vincenzo, who symbolizes it in a baton sent as an invitation. The Italian brand Bally, whose collection can be seen for the first time on the catwalk in Milan, is also hoping for something similar with the new designer born in Mali, Rhuigi Villaseñor.

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Sometimes it’s also a new logo that should give it a boost. Salvatore Ferragamo brand, which was founded in the 20th century. Founded in the 1920s by a shoemaker in Florence, it opted for a clean typography that replaces cursive writing. Boss is also unveiling a new logo that will be displayed in large white letters above the entrance to Milan’s Velodrome, where the Swabian brand will present its new collection. The performance is a show that comes on like a powerhouse: an army of models dive down the catwalk, the techno beats drowned out only by motorcyclists riding huge metal ball wheels.

Influencers line up on the red carpet

Like all brands, the Swabian company strives to keep up with modernity. Drones hover above the script, sending impressive images to the world almost simultaneously, barely-adult influencers line the red carpet, and hundreds of screaming teenagers greet them behind the barriers. Khaby Lame, one of the most successful TikTok stars in the world with 142 million followers, is the Boss brand ambassador and gets a standing ovation on the catwalk.

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